Not all organic products are created equal

What organic labels really mean

Organic, regional, natural, certified: we come across many terms on food packaging. But not all of them mean the same thing. Whilst ‘organic’ and ‘eco’ are protected by law, other terms may simply refer to specific characteristics or production methods.

Anyone who chooses certified organic food can rely on clearly defined rules. Mirjan Köhler, head chef at the Biohotel Leutascherhof, explains the requirements behind these standards and why there are different organic labels.

Hello Mirjan, how can you tell if a food product is genuinely organic?

The easiest way to recognise it is by a recognised organic label. Within the European Union, the EU Organic Regulation forms the legal basis. The EU organic logo indicates that a food product has been produced and inspected in accordance with these guidelines.

Terms such as ‘organic’ and ‘eco’ cannot be used arbitrarily on food products. A product bearing such a label must have been inspected by an authorised inspection body. The labelling therefore also includes the number of the relevant organic inspection body.

Terms such as ‘close to nature’, ‘from controlled cultivation’ or ‘from responsible farming’, on the other hand, do not automatically mean that a product is certified organic. They may indicate certain practices, but they are no substitute for a recognised organic label.

What does the EU Organic Regulation cover?

The EU Organic Regulation sets out binding minimum requirements for organic farming and the processing of organic food.

These include, amongst other things, rules on:

• the use of fertilisers and plant protection products,
• the rearing and feeding of animals,
• the origin and processing of agricultural raw materials,
• the use of additives and processing aids,
• the separation of organic and conventional produce,
• the labelling and traceability of products,
• and regular inspections throughout the production and processing chain.

The use of genetically modified organisms is generally not permitted in organic production. Similarly, synthetic chemical plant protection products and readily soluble mineral nitrogen fertilisers may not be used at will. The applicable legal organic requirements are decisive in each case.

Why are there other organic labels alongside the EU organic logo?

The EU organic logo denotes the statutory organic standard within the European Union. In addition, there are organic associations such as BIO AUSTRIA, Bioland, Naturland and Demeter.

These organisations operate according to their own guidelines. Depending on the organisation, these may go beyond the statutory minimum requirements in certain areas – for example, in the management of the entire farm, animal husbandry, feeding, processing or the origin of individual feedstuffs and ingredients.

However, the guidelines differ in detail and are regularly updated. For this reason, one should not rely on individual figures taken out of context. Anyone wishing to know exactly what a particular label guarantees can find the currently valid criteria directly from the organisation concerned.

What sets BIO AUSTRIA apart?

BIO AUSTRIA is the network of Austrian organic farmers. The association’s guidelines take a whole-farm approach: member farms organise their operations in accordance with the applicable BIO AUSTRIA requirements.

In addition to the statutory organic requirements, further criteria play a role, relating, for example, to animal husbandry, feeding, soil fertility, circular economy and the use of farm inputs.

For us as a hotel, BIO AUSTRIA is also an important partner because the organisation stands for credible and certified organic farming in Austria.

And what does Demeter mean?

Demeter stands for biodynamic agriculture. It is based on the statutory requirements for organic farming as well as additional guidelines set by the organisation itself.

A distinctive feature is the concept of viewing the farm as a closed-loop system as far as possible. Building and maintaining soil fertility, the integration of crop production and livestock farming, and the use of biodynamic preparations all play an important role in this.

The same applies to Demeter: what matters is not individual marketing claims, but the applicable guidelines and their enforcement.

Is a stricter certification label automatically better in every respect?

It’s not quite that simple. The various organic certification labels sometimes place different emphases. In certain areas, some requirements go significantly beyond the statutory EU organic standard.

However, which product is the best choice also depends on other factors: What is being produced? Where and at what time of year was it produced? How was it processed? What transport routes were necessary?

An organic label provides reliable information about the production rules under which a food product was produced. However, it does not automatically tell us everything about taste, transport, climate impact or regional value creation.

Which is more important: organic or regional?

‘Organic’ and ‘regional’ describe two different characteristics. ‘Organic’ stands for a controlled production method in accordance with set rules. ‘Regional’ describes the geographical origin, but is not clearly defined without further explanation.

A regional food product is therefore not automatically organically produced. Conversely, an organic food product does not necessarily come from the immediate vicinity.

For our kitchen, we therefore seek as often as possible a combination of both: certified organic quality and a traceable origin from Tyrol or Austria. If a suitable product is not available regionally, organic certification remains our fundamental purchasing criterion.

How does the Leutascherhof put this into practice in its day-to-day cooking?

At the Leutascherhof, we use certified organic food and have our kitchen inspected regularly. When purchasing, we also pay attention to seasonality, origin, quality and reliable partnerships.

Our first port of call is suitable products from Tyrol. We then look in other regions of Austria. Anything that does not grow here or is not available in sufficient organic quality is sourced from carefully selected organic suppliers in other regions.

It goes without saying that coffee, cocoa, spices or tropical fruits cannot come from Tyrol. For us, therefore, an honest approach to regionality means not portraying the origin as better than it actually is.

How do guests benefit from certified organic cuisine?

Above all, clarity and reliability. Our guests don’t have to ask with every dish whether the ingredients used come from organic farming. Organic certification provides a transparent framework for this.

Added to this are our close contact with many suppliers, a conscious approach to seasonal produce, and a cuisine that focuses on the natural character of the ingredients.

For us, therefore, ‘organic’ is not just a marketing claim. It is a regulated foundation for our daily work.

Dear Mirjan, thank you very much for the interview!

In brief

• ‘Organic’ and ‘eco’ are legally protected terms when it comes to food.
• The EU organic logo indicates compliance with the EU’s legal organic requirements.
• Recognised organic associations may set additional requirements.
• The specific criteria vary depending on the association and product category.
• ‘Regional’ refers to the origin but is not a substitute for organic certification.
• At the Leutascherhof, we combine certified organic quality wherever possible with seasonal produce of traceable origin from Tyrol and Austria.